The day a started well. At dear Rotterdam Central the nice lady in tourist information wrote down what trains, which platform etc for us to get to Koblenz. Dont forget dear readers we do not have smart phones. I could use my tablet but it relyes on local free wifi, so it is a bit erratic. Thought to pick up some train picnic provisions on the way.....thank goodness. Read on!
All was going well till we crossed the border into Germany. It was like a switch being flicked off. First thing I get a ticking off from the German transport chap for not completing my interrail schedule correctly. He got me in such a tizz I made another silly mistake on the form.
Then we fell foul of the cycle area! We didnt realise we were on a cycle area of the train. It was just `empty` so we got on and sat down. A couple of stops further on and a pair of padded bottomed lycra clad cyclists got on and glared at us. Of course realising our `mistake`, we apologise profusely (why do we do this), and move further along the train. They proceed to occupy 7 flip up seats for their precious bikes plus 2 for their padded bottoms. Meanwhile Norman, me, two drag bags, two small rucksacks and a shopping bag squeeze into two small seats. Where is the sense in this?
Dusseldorf! I could say some unkind things, but I wont say anything at all. Slight confusion over which platform we should be on so asked at the information desk. The lady was quite insistant that we travel from platform 16 despite the fact that there was a stonking great intercity with `Koblenz` displayed on it on platform 15 . She was right, platform 16 does travel to Koblenz...... very slowly. Finally we arrive in Koblenz.
At the station travel desk we ask for directions to our hotel. The man behind the desk (who was bizarrely wearing rubber gloves, is it very germy here?) told us a taxi would be the best option. But on booking.com it says the hotel in 500 metres from the station! Ah, but not Koblenz main station! There are a couple of satelite stations in Koblenz, so off we go.10 euros later we are deposited outside Hotel Sessellite. On booking.com the hotel looks like a very typical German building, in fact it is described as such. The description of the restaurant should have forwarned me. Specialising in Indian and Italian cuisine. This is very far from the German experience we were expecting. But we are tired and travel worn and room 26 looks ok so we check in. Our host insists that his burly assistant will bring our heavy bags to the 2nd floor by 6 oclock. I really dont want to leave our bags, but making sure we have our important stuff with us we head off out to see whats about. It doesnt take long, there is a big Lidl (hurrah) and a small cafe selling beer for 2 euros.
Satisfied that we have exhausted the delights of the locality we head back to the hotel. 6.15, no bags. 6.30 no bags. So off I go to enquire. Our host is reading his paper and having a smoke and is insistant that he himself delivered our bags some time ago. I can feel the blood draining from my body. I packed our bags so I know they contain an assortment of t shirts, underwear and toiletries. Nothing worth nicking, however they are all we have to travel around the world with. We can deal with losing the odd item (in fact we fully intend to replace things as we journey on.) As it turns out, our host has delivered the bags to room 27. Fortunately those guests are out for the day so havent had the opportunity to rifle through our undies. Profuse apologies accepted, I vow never to leave our bags again. If I have to carry them up multiple flights of stairs so be it.
We catch the number 9 bus into Koblenz. We visited here back in the 80`s when we did a Rhine cruise. We fondly recalled an old town situated where the Mosel and Rhine rivers join. In our memories we had a wonderful time dancing in an old square to the music of an ompha band. Buxom frauliens serving briming skeins of beer and vast platters of bratwurst. Lovely times! There is still a faint shadow of those times, the squares are still there but are inhabited by Pizza Hut and burger joints. No dancing. We do find a place serving snitzel and salad and I will say it was jolly good, but I could have eaten a scabby dog by then. (No offence intended to our canine friends).
The walk back was quite pleasant but took 30 brisk minutes. Time to relax with a glass of wine and a bit of tv in our room. TV is locked! Norman puts his clothes back on and goes down stairs. Eventually our hosts assistant fixes it. Sadly the reception is so poor there is nothing much to watch so we decide to go to bed. Trouble is, now we can`t switch the damned TV off! This time I put my clothes back on and go downstairs. Even our host admits defeat and eventually pulls the plug out of the wall.
I would describe this as an Indian themed Fawlty Towers. We are booked in for 3 nights!
Seriously considering moving on. Next stop is Prague, where we have booked a holiday chalet about 9 kilometres out from Wenselas Square. Piece and quiet in the countryside is what we need. Unfortunately the chalet is fully booked so we cant extend our stay there.
Right! Get a grip Trurans! We have paid rubbish for this hotel, so what do we expect? The bed is actually very comfortable and the sheets etc are pristine. Good nights sleep. Health and safety around the building is alarming but we are adventure`rs, so with Swiss Army Knife in hand there is nothing we can`t deal with. Up, bright and breezy, room picnic breakfast of yoghurt and fruit and off we go.
We have a choice of bus (3 euros) or ferry across the river (2 euros) or walk of course. Ferry it is then. We found the old square, there are several old squares as it transpires! It is still there, it still has cafes/bars/restaurants, the old church clock still plays a merry tune to mark the hour. We start off with coffee and watch the world go by. I have never seen so many sausage dogs. I love them, one day I will have two long coated ones and call them Fritz and Wurst. Before long its lunch time so we have a beer and toasted sandwich. The clock plays its merry tune again while we eat so we have to wait another hour so I can record it. To fill in the time we have another beer.
I like Koblenz very much. There is a new modern shopping area but they have left the old town alone. We stroll along the wide boulevards along the Mosel and Rhine and watch the tour buses offloading frazzled tourists. The cruise boats are still trading but are very fancy now, I should imagine `Rowland Two` (our old cruise boat) has long since met a watery grave. We meet some fellow Brits who are cycling the 900 miles of the Rhine, impressive! Shopping - we buy a travel kettle (they don`t seem to have tea making facilities in rooms in Europe), a Christmas card (special one that I couldn`t resist) and a pair of scissors (to cut Normans `tash). Its been a nice day.
Our final day in Koblenz. Despite the hotel, I like Koblenz very much. There is a lot to see and do. Busy day today. We go to the laundrette, its ok washing undies etc in the shower but when it comes to trousers and hoodies it helps to have a machine. So we gather together everything that needs washing and get the job done. You may recall the Levis advert where the chap sits in the laundrette in his boxers watching his clothes go round? Well, thats us. Then we go to the main railway station and reserve our seats on the train and bus for tomorrows journey to Prague. Another lesson learned - book early! We cannot get seats together on the bus, we are only a row or two apart but its still disappointing. Hey ho.
Its a blisteringly hot day. 30 degrees. So we catch the bus back to Enbreitenstein, too hot to walk too far. Drop in to Lidl and buy breakfast for tomorrow and a train picnic. This feels very `normal` now. Its becoming our routine. Walking into the square, which is usually deserted, we are amazed to find a market going on. Enbreitenstein is actually a very old area, 17/8 century, and could be very lovely but is a bit run down. If only they hid the bins and planted up a few hanging baskets it would be really nice. But today, the sun is shining, the market stalls are selling lovely local produce, local people are shopping, kids are playing in the fountain, fat cats are lazing on windowsills. Also saw a lovely red Amphicar 770. Hans Trippel started building these in 1961. He built 3,878, they have twin propellors and can achieve 6.5 knots or 12 k per hour. Best way to absorb the atmosphere is with a beer at the cafe. We stay for two beers, watching men playing some game involving dice, a leather cup and some counters on a wooden stick. I could have sat there for hours but we need to pack, so head up the hill to the hotel.
I will miss Koblenz.