Istanbul

First, the hotel; Istanbul is crazy expensive. But I found a reasonable deal very close to The Blue Mosque in Sultanahmet on the European side of Istanbul. The Dilhayat Kalfa Hotel. Its a tall narrow building, whiteboarded with little wrought iron balastrades at the windows. The steps are marble and there are roses and shrubs in pots outside. Our host is very welcoming, photographs our passports (standard practise) and queries my choice of a twin room. I explain, it was the only room available on the website and its fine. (I think we can cope, we aren't newly weds). So we are shown into a lovely room on the ground floor, its really nice and there is a door onto a little private terrace which in summer would be blissfully cool as it is surrounded by very high walls. Marble floors and more potted shrubs, all beautifully cared for. Inside, we are cosy and warm, wooden floors and Turkish rugs, lovely fluffy towels and crisp white bed linen. Our host apologies that there is no lift in this old building to the roof terrace where breakfast is served. The walls have lovely old artwork, every surface has beautifull sculptures, jars and Turkish ornaments. Its is lovely. So, up the marble stairs we go to see the terrace. This is our hosts pride and joy, rightfully so. The glass sided indoor area has fabulous views over the roof tops to the Bosphorus and the Marmara Sea. Turn around and the minarets of The Blue Mosque are so close you feel you can touch them. Wow! There is an outside terrace but, as its snowing we don't go there, I should imagine having breakfast out there in the summer would be wonderful though. There are also green parrots in the trees that are quite entertaining.

We are exhausted, but need to eat and go out to explore. A few metres to the corner, turn right, a few metres up a short hill and there you are, in the heart of Sultanahmet Meydani (Sultan Ahmet Square). Blimey, The Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace all right there, on our door step. Seriously, everything that we most want to see is within walking distance. The Grand Bazaar is only a 10 minute walk away too.

The Blue Mosque: Sadly for us a lot of restoration work is in progress. Turkey is spending money and time preserving its most precious monuments. So, some of the glory of the ceilings, for instance, is not available to see. (Have to come back when its finished then. Ha ha). Outside it is chucking it down with rain. There is a queue to get in. So many Chinese, Japanese, Vietnamese visitors. The noise is incredible. Standard Mosque etiquette; ladies to cover hair. Men to remove hats. All to remove shoes. All to be modestly dressed (no shorts or sleeveless tops) Plastic bags are provided to put shoes in and you can borrow a head scarf if you don't have your own. During prayer time access is limited, but at all times respect for worshippers is requested. ie; keep noise to a minimum, dont photograph people praying. Pretty normal manners I think. We were horrified at peoples disrespect! The volume of noise did not go down once inside! People trying to get out of taking their shoes off, or putting them back on as soon as they got in. Women removing headcoverings as soon as they got past the guides at the doors. It was quite shocking. I am not religious in any way at all, but I do think that in someone's elses house, or place of worship, you abide by their rules. Anyway, rant over.......two days later they all went back to where they came from and peace was restored to Istanbul. Apparently Christmas and New Year sees this influx over winter, then its quiet till mid March when the summer season starts which goes till mid November. So, if you want to see Istanbul without the crowds, choose your time wisely. Also, you won't feel rushed in restaurants etc. Anyway, back to The Blue Mosque. Its a impressive building. Sultan Ahmed Mosque is its proper title (Sultanahmet Camii in Turkish). Work started in 1609 and continued till 1616. The huge dome, the six minarettes, the blue tiles, fabulous even on a gloomy day. Even better a day later when the sun came out and the snow added to the scene. It is a wonderfully peaceful place. You can visit the Imam if you like, just for a chat about religion or any subject you want for that matter. All are welcome, no one is turned away and no charge is asked. I feel so at peace. Just to take time, absorb the ambiance, the tranquility is just lovely. I also love the lack of `adornment` no gold, no jewel encrusted bits and bobs. The only decoration is the building itself, its `elephant leg` columns, the beautifull ceramic tiles, the carpet. Its a beautiful, simple place for worship. Thats it! If you do come to Istanbul, make sure to be in the square when the call to prayer happens. I love hearing this melodious call, but to hear it from numerous minarets in this wonderful place is glorious.

Wow! Total curve ball! Got to talk about the`Just bar`. Feeling slightly alcohol deprived! Would be nice to sit at a bar and order a G&T and a Scotch with water, no ice. You will get it in the Southern coastal resorts, but not so easy in these parts. Fear not dear travelling friends! I will find it! Its the `Just Bar`! Five minutes from our hotel. Bit of a slow start, but we were the first in. Soon three lovely Korean ladies joined the party, they were fun. They knew the playlist, Abba, Queen, Elvis, Dire Straights etc. Sang along. Danced along. Lovely ladies. Then we were joined by Turkish guys. Deep joy! One is a gulet captain! Lots of salty sea dog tales, photos of his gulet, websites exchanged. We could well meet again! He has a travel agency in Istanbul called `Before Travel Turkey`. Well worth looking at if you are planning a trip to Turkey.

Hagia Sophia - (also called the church of divine wisdom, or church of holy wisdom) just a few steps from the Blue Mosque. This huge pink building was first built as a Greek Orthodox Christian Cathedral, prior to this the sight was home to a pagan temple. Then it became a mosque, now it is a museum (small charge to get in) Many of the columns inside were brought here from the Temple of Artemis in Greece. The size of this building is mindblowing, but its the artwork that really blows you away. I know I keep saying this, but......it must have been so beautiful when it was first done. My pictures don't do it justice. Make sure to go up in the gallery, its not well signposted and mind your step, its a very slippy marble slope.

The Basilica Cistern - Just a few steps from Hagia Sophia is The Basilica Cistern. This is a huge underground water cistern built in 527-565. Its a giant! Its 140m in length, and 70m in width. The columns, of which there are 336, are 9m in height. They were sourced from older buildings and are various marbles and styles. Some are Corinthian others are Doric. The walls are 4.8m thick with a waterproof covering of Khorasan mortar. The cistern holds 100,000 tons of water. Thats a lot of water! Its drippy, echoey, and beautifully lit to highlight the brickwork and the columns that seem to go on forever due to the refection in the water. There are two heads of Medusa that have been used as plinths. No one knows for sure if they just fitted a purpose because they were the right size, or if they were placed to protect this important place. One myth; Medusa was a beautiful girl proud of her long hair, black eyes and beautifil body. She was in love with Perseus, son of Zeus. Meanwhile, Athena was also in love with Perseus and was jealous of Medusa. So Athena turned Medusas hair into snakes and from then on, whoever Medusa looked at was turned into stone. Later on Perseus cut off Medusas head taking advantage of her power, he was able to defeat his enemies. Stemming from this myth, Byzantines would use upside down carvings of Medusa to protect people without turning them into stone. Nice story, explains why quite often Medusa is upside down.

Grand Bazaar - this is exactly how I had imagined it to be. A maze of little alleyways (61 streets to be precise) all under the cover of domed ceilings with lovely mosaics and paintings. Over 4,000 tiny shops spilling into the alley ways selling everything from fine gold jewellery to hand beaten copper pots and pans. Its very vibrant, noisy and chaotic. Shops keepers call out what they are selling, its all jolly banter. This is the place to practise your haggling skills if you have any! Cay sellers weave amongst the crowds with hanging trays of steaming hot tea. Porters carry impossibly precariously loaded trays of food above their heads. There is a lot of tourist tat, but also some lovely Turkish items too. The jewellery is exquisite, wish I wore it, but jewellery has never been my passion. I love the copper and the ceramics. The shops are handed down through the generations, some families have been here for a long while.

Topkapi palace - must say it is bitterly cold and I feel dreadful. Damned cold is really coming out, I am shaky and sweaty but shivering. But we ARE going to see this. The views are fabulous across Istanbul. The architecture, the tiles, the paintings, the artifacts. Fabulous. I loved the kitchens, of course. The ceramics were so beautiful and perfect. The descriptions were great, very informative. I cannot believe the age of these things, and the distance travelled. From China, from all over the world.

Harem - so much to write up on the above, but have to share this moment with you. I am happy to read information boards, but Norman gets tired of putting his glasses on and off, so we rented an audioguide for him. He was slightly dissapointed that the Harem was not inhabited by delectible young ladies in floaty garments. ( I think visions of a Carry On film were in his head!). Then I asked him what went on in a particular room and his reply was `This is where the porcupines lived`, I think Normans hearing needs testing when we get home! Concubines darling, concubines! Dont think the sultan would have much use for a prickly rodent! There is whole room devoted to the circumcision ceremony, celebrations went on here. (Wonder if the young man in question felt like celebrating much?) Norman said he guessed the tiled walls were so the blood could be easily washed off (he didnt linger long here). All joking aside, it is a very impressive place, the decoration is fabulous. I can imagine reclining on a couch in splendid garments hoping the sultan might just call by. However, it seems the sultans mother had a lot to do with who his wifes and concubines were. There were Eunuch guards to protect the harem, and pages (who were castrated) to run errands and generally serve the wives and concubines. Sounds like fun being a man in the harem!

Spice bazaar - bit of trouble finding it but when we did it was worth it. The headyscent of fresh spices was totally intoxicating. We spent a couple of happy hours wandering, chatting to the `honey man` whose honey can cure almost any complaint you might have. Having cay in a lovely cafe overlooking the spice street below. Bought some fresh ginger to make some tea as we both have gone down with coughs. The domed ceilings are quite lovely, I wonder how they keep them clean? Chilled! Relaxed! This is great! Then on our way to our favourite Barbecue Bar, we meet Mr Nasty! Usual banter, hello, how are you, where are you from. Must have been extra chilled not to be alert! I like the Turkish banter, its usually friendly with no menace. Oh my goodness, this was different. Before we know it we are in the back of a tiny shop in the Grand Bazaar, with a big man who just will not let us go. I don't want a carpet, or a rug or a sodding pashmina! Everytime we try to leave he says `dont insult me`. I am feeling very intimidated. The price strarts at TL4,750, finally, to get out, we pay TL600, for two pashminas I dont want. Supposed to be cashmere/silk, yeah, right, polyester. Then, he says `Oh, I need another TL105 tax!! No way. I am on my feet, heading for the door. Bloody devastated. Havent dealt with this before in Turkey. Gutted. Trudging along the road back to the Blue Mosque and a man says `Hello, are you okay`. Well, no actually I am not! Whats the matter? I tell him. `Come with me, we will sort this out`. He explains, the Municipality (local council) will not allow this type of behaviour from stall holders. There is a standard that has to be met because tourism is very valuable to Turkey. So, we end up with the Tourism Police and the Municipality Police. They take a statement from me. Phonecalls take place. Norman & I walk back to the bazaar with our gang of policemen, track down the man. Initially not easy, but he had given me his business card, so couldn't hide far!! He looked very scared (big man suddenly looked small compared to the police men.), I hate to say `I dont care, but I dont!`. I get my money back. He still tries it on with the tax, but is soon told where to shove that! We leave him with the policemen. I hope they have fun. We go off and thank our new friend for his advice, and the tourist police office for their help. Then, finally go for something to eat at the Barbeque bar. Our last day in Istanbul! Mostly spent filling forms. Hey ho! I am glad we pursued it, it would have left a nasty taste in our experience of Istanbul (and a hole in our finances), also that guy would continue his bad practise and rip off other tourists. There are rotten apples in every barrel. We have met a few on this journey, part of the experience. While we were with the tourist police a German man came in who had been `locked out` (I assume he had lost his keys). And a young Japanese guy who desperately wanted a policeman to go with him, as he had seen the man who took money off him in a bar the night before outside in the square. All things that happen in big cities all over the world sadly.