Even Turkish people have said `Why do you want to go to Ankara? There is not a lot there, its just a big commercial city`. Yes, its the capital of Turkey. Its on the way, and I want to see Ataturks mausoleum and the Independence museum. Thats why.
First things first. We have booked Hotel 2017. Very central. Its a taksi ride from the Otogar, but not too far. There is a huge shopping road (like Oxford street) and an indoor mall with all the usual international brands. Couldn't see an M&S or Next though. I buy a pair of fabulous Lumberjack walking boots, (waterproof bliss) and some thick comfy socks. Sadly this means my trusty friends, my Brookes trainers, who have been with me through a couple of marathons and relevant training programmes have to go! No room for excess baggage I am afraid and they aren't worth the postage. So, farewell old friends!
We stumble apon the Adana Turkish BBQ restaurant almost by accident. Its just down the road from the hotel, its frontage is a bit `shy`. It doesnt scream its wares like most. We soon find out why. It simply doesnt need to. There is outside seating for the tobacco addicts, then a standard but nice restaurant area (tables and chairs), then the best bit! A big beaten copper circular table with low stools, about 20 -25 stools in all. In the middle is a hole with a BBQ pit about 10 feet across. Here the `pit master` works his magic. Above is a huge copper chimney to extract the smoke. Charcoal, flames, smoke, sizzling meat, roasting vegetables popping and fizzing directly on the hot coals. We are directly given the standard Turkish salades, fine sliced onion with Pil biber (spice) and lemon, cucumber tomato onion combo and leaves (coriander mint, rocket, dandelion). Along with a huge puffed up flat bread (Lavas or ballon bread) with black and white sesame seeds hot and full of steam from the bread oven downstairs. None of this is ordered, its just given like you would perhaps give bread in England or a bowl of peanuts/olives. We order a chicken shish and a `tiny` kebab, which is lamb cut into small cubes. Its not marinaded in `stuff`, its simply meat. We timed the chicken, it took five minutes and was perfect, juicy but cooked through. Very generous portions. On another occassion I ordered a liver kebab (karacigar) delicious. The meat came with charred pointy green peppers and big halved tomatoes grilled till the skins were black. The wine was good, a bit pricey but ok. The food is not expensive so you have to accept the quid pro quo. (Don't have to drink it after all!) Following this is Turkish kavhe (coffee), in small cups (dont even try to drink the bottom quarter) and small glasses of iced water. Along with this was a surprise, we were given a drink like Creme de Menthe. A digestive obviously. A lovely treat.
One blight on the bliss, was witnessing our first ever drunk Turkish people. Two men, a woman and a child of about five years old (he wasn't drunk). It was new years day, a holiday, and they had obviously been there a while. Wine, raki and Creme de Menthe had been consumed and, especially the woman, they were the worst for wear. The patron, waiters and the pit master were not amused. Finally, the bill was paid and they were `assisted` from the premises. Then the patron, waiters and pit master apologised to US! It is not the impression they want to give to tourists. We hadn't really been affected, hadn't even noticed at first. We made light of it and said we should apologise for the vile behaviour of Brit`s abroad. God knows, we have a bad reputation as a touristing nation. So, national alcohol issues reconciled, we had a final Creme de Menthe and made our dignified way home.
Anitkabir. The mausoleum of Mustafa Kemel Ataturk. Leader of the Turkish war of independence and first president of the republic of Turkey. 1881-1938 He was born in Thessaloniki (now part of Greece, but back then part of the Ottoman empire). He was a revolutionary leader who is still loved today. His picture is everywhere, shops, sides of buildings etc. After graduating from military school he served against the Italians in Libya and the Balkan wars. He made his military reputation in repelling the British, French, Australian and New Zealanders from the Dardenelles (Gallipoli) in 1915. These Allies wanted to control the important sea route between Russia and Europe. The battle was a complete disaster for the Allies, they didn't know the lay of the land and there were massive loses of life on all sides before the allies finally retreated. Britains first Sea Lord, Admiral John Fisher resigned over the mishandling of the invasion by First Lord of the Admiralty, Winston Churchill. Who also resigned and later accepted the commission to command the invasion of invantry troops into France. Basically it was a catastrophe for the Allies. This is one battle we DIDNT win in the war!
There are lots of quotes from speeches made by Ataturk during and after the battle;
`I do not ask you to invade, but to die here` spoken to Turkish soldiers defending the Dardenelles. He didn't want to gain land, but to defend what they had. And it would be done to the death.
After the war, Ataturk set about a nationalist revolution against the peace treaties imposed by the victorious Allies. This included resisting the Greeks trying to sieze the Smyrna region. This victory over the Greeks secured a revision of the peace settlement of the treaty of Lausanne. In 1921 a provisional goverment was set up in Turkey, followed in 1923 by the Ottoman sultanate being abolished. Turkey became a republic with Ataturk as its president. He began a program of reform to modernise Turkey. Emancipation of women, abolution of Islamic institutions, western legal codes, dress, calender and alphabet. Replacing Arabic script with a Latin one. He aimed to be neutral and friendly to his neighbouring countries.
Another quote; `peace at home, peace in the world`.
So, to the physical building of the mausoleum and the indepence museum. Built high up on a hill overlooking Ankara it is an imposing building completed in 1953. There is a big ceremonial square with a capacity of 15,000 people with mosaic floor in a Turkish carpet pattern surrounded by columns of marble. Leading up to this is the Lions road. 262 metres long lined with 24 statues of lions, the sign of power and tranquility. The masoleum building is a huge square with columns all around. On the front either side of the door is written Ataturks speech to the youth of Turkey. It is an inspirational speech, saying that their first duty is to protect and defend Turkish independence and the Turkish republic. He then goes on to say that there will be challenges and dangers to overcome, they must be vigilant and they must not lose sight of their duty. Inside the decoation is simple but very beautifull. Its an empty space with his ceremonial sarcophagus guarded by military sentries. People come to pay their respects and we saw men overcome with emotion for this inspirational man. I wish I could have seen him, he must have been quite charismatic. His actual remains are in a vault underneath the ceremonial hall, he is surrounded by urns containing soil from all around Turkey.
The Independence museum. Its completely free and fabulous. Huge murals on the walls, the sounds of battle. Lots of information. Probably the best `war` museum we have visited. Not only showing how the soldiers were placed and who did what when. But also the role women, children and old folk had in the effort. Everybody was involved in keeping the armaments stocked up. Women carried shells to the front on ox carts and on their backs when required. They were also in the trenches, offering first aid, food and the all important cay. One of Ataturks adopted daughters was actually the first combat air pilot, with his blessing! We must have spent 4-5 hours in this most informative museum. Learned a lot!
We also saw the changing of the guard outside. It seemed all branches of the army, navy, airforce were represented. Very smart turnout. It was bitterly cold and the groundsmen were busy shovelling snow so the guard could actually march where they needed to go.
There was still more we didn't get time to see in Ankara. It was so cold and we scurried back to the warmth of the hotel earlier in the day than we normally would.