Edirne

Our hotel in Edirne is in `Unisite` pronounced `Uni City`. It is a university campus with student accomodation, but the top floor is run as a hotel. There is a restaurant, lounge area with pool table, dart board, table football. A self service laundry (heaven). And a mini market. Its fabulous! Its like a posh travel lodge. We have a studio with a kitchenette (no cooking equiptment though). Lovely en suite. Its great. The students have the same but with a single bed and a desk and chair. 

So, why Edirne? Everyone thinks Turkey ends with Istanbul in the north west, but there is a bit more Turkey to explore bordering Bulgaria and Greece. Edirne was a capital city of the Ottoman era. It played a big part in to Balkan war, during which there was a siege lasting 5 months and 15 days. The population ended up adding 10% sand to their bread to extend to rations. And they ate their dying horses to prevent starvation. It has some fabulous and important buildings and is on the river Meric. If you visit in late June or July you can see the oil wrestling festival. Muscle bound men wearing only leather trousers and a good slick of olive oil, wrestling on a hot summer day.......where is the pleasure in that spectacle??? (Must check my diary :-)

But, on a lighter note. CAT LOVERS. All round Turkey we see these, but never so many as in Edirne. Insulated, waterproof boxes with a round hole entrance, inside is a piece of carpet and a cushion or blanket. They are often in little terraces of three or four, but we have seen cat apartment buildings of six to eight on two levels. They are usually tucked under a stairwell or in a quiet corner. Outside is always fresh water and food. The cats, like the dogs, are cared for by everyone. They get rounded up for regular medical checks and vacinations. Its lovely to see. 

And there is a pub! Called `By Jon, Cafe & Pub`. Heading downhill on the right hand side of the main pedestrian shopping street. Its a little narrow tall building, 4 floors. Great hospitality.  Very little English spoken, but we have very little Turkish. Between us and the translater on the phone we got by. I actually prefer this to going somewhere where English is spoken. I feel more like we are in Turkey, and it makes me work harder to learn more Turkish.

In the centre of the city are some fabulous buildings. One is a very impressive mosque with the huge dome unsupported by columns. The artwork and fretwork is quite beautiful. We are becoming used to mosque etiquette. And we are always warmed by the welcome we get.  Norman quite often gets mistaken for a Turkish guy, but people often think I am scandinavian! Must be the hair and the lack of eyelash colour.

On our last day in Edirne we get a taksi to the Ottoman medical museum and mosque on the otherside of the river. On a nice day it would be a good walk, but its peeing with rain and quite cold, so taksi it is. First the mosque, majestic and peaceful, like a huge protecting beast. There are very few people around, just a few worshipers. Its actually nice to be able to hear the weather, rain gurling in drains and dripping onto the marble floor in the courtyard. Crows are calling from the roof tops, the sound must carry for miles. Then the Ottoman medical museum. Fascinating. What we noted most was the advise that was given on living a long and healthy life is much the same as it is today. Plenty of fresh fruit and veg, good meat and dried pulses. Eat two good meals a day and leave the table not feeling full. Some of the medical equiptment is much the same too. Probes, forceps, saws etc. Aenesthetics were pretty basic, various calming herbs and a little opium. Patients were also calmed by music, and an orchestra played.

When it came for time to leave, I rang for a taksi but was having trouble making myself understood. Never fear, the men on the souvenir stand helped us out. Rang a taksi for us and told the taksi driver where to take us. So nice, so helpful and I didn't have to buy a fridge magnet!

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