Kas

Our host had recommended we buy provisions before getting a taxi to the apartment. But with two drag bags, two small rucksacks and a shopping bag already we decide to head straight out to the apartment. I know it is not in central Kas, it is advertised as a good 20 minute walk. The taxi seems to take ages, we leave the main road onto a small road, then leave that for a gravel track. I admit I am slightly worried. We get off loaded at Villa Dundar. What a lovely welcome. We are ushered through the iron gates, up a path that opens onto a fabulous paved terrace complete with pool and the most glorious view. We have chosen the top apartment because it has a roofed terrace, so we can be outside even if it rains. (I hate not having outdoor space. Years of being trapped in offices I think.) The apartment is huge, much too big for us really, two bedrooms, two bathrooms a large open plan living room and kitchen with a fireplace. And two terraces, one opening from the master bedroom, which wraps around the corner affording fabulous mountain views and glimpses of the sea. In the morning the sun makes this a great place for a morning cup of tea. The other terrace is huge, with a hammock and a glass table and chairs big enough to seat six. The terrace `walls` are glass so the view is uninterrupted. And what a view! All of the bay of Kas, lush green mountains dotted with little houses. At nighttime it is pretty too as the lights come on in the town. We get a taxi back into town to do a big shop. But in the garden around the pool are fruit trees. Anna gives us Avocados fresh from the tree (she has eaten so many this year she is glad to give some away). She also offers grapefruits which smell fabulous, she says they are so sweet they need no sugar. Sadly they are the one fruit I cannot eat although I do love them. Oranges, lemons, everything grows so well here. Paradise indeed.

Christmas is saved! You can buy brussel sprouts in Turkey! I dont know why I find this funny, but I do. In the village bazaar, held every Friday in Kas, people come in from the local area to sell whatever they have grown or produced at home. I love these food bazaars, you know that the food is seasonal, has been picked very fresh and the food miles are minimal. I love to buy from the old folk, who might only have a little table of vegetables but their years of growing experience shines through. The flavour of everything is intense. Every mouthfull is a taste sensation. There in amongst the peppers, aubergines and tomatoes nestled the little green gems that are brussel sprouts. You can buy all manner of green veg` in Turkey, some of which I have no idea of their names or how to cook them, but this is the first time I have seen sprouts. They were displayed ready trimmed like exotic food from the Gods. Had to buy some. Ha ha. The man who sold them said `Ah, English` as if that explained everything. They were delicious by the way.

Kas is situated on the Lycian way, which is a 540k trail which starts near Olu Deniz in the west and ends near Antalya in the east. Its a challenging walk over the mountains and dipping down into the coast along the way. And it passes right by Villa Dundar! Time to test my ankle. The walk starts out well along a rough but good gravel/stoney trail to a farmhouse. Then the track becomes narrow, steep, muddy and rocky. But the scenery is lovely. Also we are delighted to find masses of tiny narcissus and crocus flowers amongst the rocks and ruins. Our host, Anna, had told us that we would eventually reach a lovely beach (Limanagzi beach) where there is a cafe (Nuris beach bungalow,) where you can sometimes get a taxi boat back to Kas. The final decent was more of a rock climb. We were wearing ordinary trainers and the rocks were slippery, so to avoid any more broken bones we turned back. At several points on the walk we found clearings where the ground had been turfed up. We wondered who would have tried to plow this land? It is very isolated, we met one other intrepid walker in the whole afternoon. Obviously other people had walked it recently judging by the foot prints in the mud, there were also dog paw prints, goat prints and what we took to be large deer prints. On our return home I googled `wild life in Turkey` to see what deer are present, and the penny dropped! I am embarrassed to say that despite being born and brought up on a pig farm I did not recognise the evidence of WILD BOAR! It was a jolly good walk, we did get muddy but the peace was wonderful, birdies singing etc. Loved it. I would love to walk the whole thing, not sure Norman is that keen though. Any volunteers?

There is a lot to do and see in Kas. There are various boat trips, including one to the heighbouring Greek island of Meis. We never did get there, hey ho, next time maybe. The ancient theatre is well worth a visit, the views out to sea are lovely (makes me wonder how you would concentrate on a play, debate etc when there is that view catching your eye). Dotted throughout Turkey there are archeological sites, sarcophagus, ruins etc. Kas has its fair share. I love that they are not surrounded by ropes or railings, life is continuing, people respect their history and would not deface it, but the market goes on around them. Simple goods are still changing hands at this place as they have been for thousands of years. We also took a bus to Demre to visit Aziz (St) Nikolaos and Myra Orenyeri. I have created a separate page dedicated to this trip!

On our ramble back home one evening we stopped in a bar by the harbour for a refreshing beverage, as one does. Our waiter, Murat, was lovely and took the time to talk to us about life in Kas. He also gave me his recipe for a fabulous fruity and boozy cocktail. It is a bottle of absolut vodka, wrapped in lemon slices and rosemary leaves in a tightish plastic bag with some water. Once frozen, remove the plastic bag and place the frozen `plug` into a large glass container. Start filling the container around the plug with fruit. Layers of blueberries, strawberries, pineapple, peaches etc. The wriggle the vodka bottle out, making sure not to move or break the icy plug. Empty the vodka into the now empty plug, followed by a bottle of rose wine and some mineral water. Wow! This is a cocktail to be enjoyed by a few friends. Just convince yourself it is part of your five a day. Enjoy.

We found a great place for a tea or a lunch. The Kamal pide and kebab salune. Its where the locals go. It wouldn't survive if it was not good. The food is simple Turkish and fabulous. Hospitality at its finest. If you come to Kas you must eat here.