Rhodes

Its always hard leaving somewhere you love (Paros). Its especially hard when your arrival at the new place doesnt go smoothly. 

 

Mrs Grumpy on reception doesnt know anything about taxis. I will have to take that up with the day staff. She goes to great lengths to tell me the difference between a room and an apartment. We have a room apparently! When we eventually find it (she doesnt know her left from her right either), it is actually a studio, which is what I booked. So, I am happy as I didnt want a hotel room. 

 

The `lush tropical gardens` are a dissappointing overwatered, therefore smelly, patch of grass and waterweed. The studio is actually a nice big space. Needs that man with a box of tools though. Can't turn on the hot taps in either the kitchen sink or the bathroom hand basin. The shower is just about warm. The crockery hasnt seen a proper wash in a while, so priority is washing up liquid and a sponge.

 

Meanwhile they do a buffet breakfast for €4, so as we have only had a sandwich and a bag of crisps in the last 15 hours, we head for the restaurant. Mmmmmm, its not great. I think the fried eggs were cooking overnight. The baked beans are very runny. Nothing is very hot, infact its, barely warm. There are some cereals but I cant see any milk. There is a big bowl of brown stuff which I can only assume is something chocolate based, but I dont want to try it. We cobble together something to stave off the hunger pangs and go to our studio to go to bed. 

 

We are out like a light until the maids come in. Fortunately we hadnt gone to bed starkers! We have only been here a couple of hours, what do we need maids for!!!!! Anyway, we get back to sleep for a few hours. 

 

We do have a seaview. Its across a stretch of scrubland which must have been agricultural allottments at one time. One is still in semi-production with a chicken run complete with rooster. Great! Cock-a-doodle bloody do! Worryingly there are several dogs on the prowl, some with collars, some without. I love dogs, but not strays. We have had our rabies jabs but I dont want to actually need them. We witnessed a family with a litte girl heading off to the beach across the scrubland. The little girl was holding something (a toy I think) that one dog took a fancy to. She screamed and raised her arms, which is a natural reaction. The dog started jumping at her, probably thinking it was a game. In the end the father had to hold the child (she was probably about 5, so no mean feat) above his head and still this dog was jumping up at them. Trouble is that even if they complain, the hotels just say its not their dog so not their problem.

 

Anyway, off we go to sample the delights of Faliraki. I know its the Ibiza-like party scene of Greece. Nightlife, Bars, clubs etc. Also a long sandy beach with watersports etc. I thought we might need a bit of uptempo after the chilled out Paros. Oh God. What a shock. Its a rundown has-been resort. What isn't derelict is mostly closed down. Trying to find a `positive`; if you ever have the need for a decorated wooden penis in all sizes imaginable this is the place to come to. Also the maniquin wearing a dusty bit of lingerie leaning her forhead again a bit of scafold pole to advertise the strip club was quite amusing. But the biggest shock is how expensive everything is! All the menus have the same stuff, mostly fried. 

 

Its Normans birthday! Happy birthday Norm. So, as a treat we decide if you cant beat them, join them! So we head into Jimmys bar. `Jimmys` is actually fronted by Mark, a lovely South African guy who sorts us out a cup of PG tips, which then leads to a beer. The menu is burgers etc, so I settle for a JD burger and Norman goes for scampi. Its junk food but, actually its very good junk food. Also its something we rarely eat. 

 

Getting on to expensive. It is very expensive. That trip to Jimmy`s ended up costing nearly €50. Two sunbeds and a parasol on the beach is €10. Its a sandy beach, and you can buy a parasol for €9.80, so thats the better option especially if you only plan spending a couple of hours a day there. After a week you can ditch the parasol if you cant or dont want to get it home. There is a laundrette just around the corner, after having 2 loads done in Athens for €8, I thought I would use it. They quoted me €70! Yes, seventy! (It could have been done as one load but I know our beach towels still leach colour.) Rip off! I dont think I am a mean person, but neither am I an open cheque book. This is pure greed.

 

Food; we found a tavern called `Family taverna` just around the corner. Its clientele is mainly local working people (good sign). Its clean, bright and unfussy. The local cat population mill around looking for handouts and there is a resident parrot, who is entertaining. You can get an English breakfast if you like, but why would you when the Greek menu is so impressive. And its sensible prices. Hurrah.We were very much welcomed, especially when our Ouzo expertise came to the fore. Sitting watching a storm out to sea (you cant see the wasteland at night - blessing), we had a fabulous meze meal, half litre of house rose and two Greek liquers that tasted like Turkish delight for €29. We waddled home, stuffed to the rafters with baked feta, sardines, muscles with garlic, taramasolata, home made flatbreads, fillo stuffed with feta and drizzled in honey, and other dishes (I lost count). No wonder we are putting on weight! This place is singlehandedly restoring a few brownie points for Rhodes. Well done `Family Taverna`. We visited four times in all. The last night was very special, it was very busy and they were short staffed. We were treated like old friends. Lots of jokes about how we would have to wait as they had more important `new` guests. Food, as usual was great, wine, ouzo etc etc. All for €25.

 

Quickly moving on to Rhodes Town. Blimey! Yet another face of Greece. We are only 12k from Faliraki but might as well be a different planet. The Lefka Htl and Apts. What a gem. Ten minute walk from the port and five minutes from the charming old town. We have a lovely ground floor apartment, proper kitchen and fabulous bathroom. Open the patio doors from the bedroom and we are in a shady courtyard garden festooned with lemon vines growing over trellis shielding us from the hot sun. And, result, there are a load of supercars doing parades around the harbour and into the new town. Ferraris, Porsche, Lamborgini, Aston Martin, Audi, BMW plus more. What a treat. Wasn't expecting that!

 

I would like to go back to Rhodes town and also to visit Lindos, but will avoid Faliraki like the plague.

Sunset over the scrubland

Advertising the poledancing club

Why would you buy this?

Family taverna

Rhodes town

Rhodes town

Supercars Rhodes town

Rhodes town